Can Closet Update
As promised, the Can Closet project is moving along nicely and it's time for an update.
Here is the wall we selected for the project. it is just off the Kitchen, and a short open wall space. Three steps and we are out and back into the kitchen so we felt this the logical choice.
This unit is going to be placed in the hollow space between the wall studs. It is an often unused dead air space and can be really useful as long as you are careful to not to overdo the span. There are also a few other considerations- There are bearing walls that need to be handled carefully, exterior walls will have insulation that if removed, will affect heating and air conditioning costs, check ahead of cutting into a space for water pipes and electric wires, central vacuum tubes, and of course, be sure to check your local codes as some un-permitted repairs or additions can be costly when you want to sell the property. Different states have vastly different rules. For us, this wall is the left side of a storage closet with shelves, No water and shouldn't have any electric lines. So the next step is measuring it out and removing the drywall on the outer side.
This photo shows the rough opening, note the stud in the middle. Turns out that the shelves in the closet on the opposite side are nailed into this stud so I need to remove it carefully and supply a way to stabilize the shelves once its out. I used a Saws-all to cut the upper and lower end of the end of the stud. I intended to make the unit full height so though I cut the bottom piece a bit proud, I was able to completely remove it. The blade of the saw did pierce the drywall, but a bit of spackle will repair that quickly.
These photos were taken from the Kitchen, braced against the fridge on the left- you can just see the counter on the right for reference on how close this unit will be to the kitchen. We really didn't want this to be inconvenient when cooking.
This shot is to show the new header I installed at the top of the space. A header isn't really needed since this isn't a bearing wall, but in case I needed to nail up to secure the can unit, I would have a spot already in place. This is just a 2x4 cut to fit, laid in horizontally, screwed in to the mid stud and on both ends by using a toe nail technique, or 45 degree angle for best hold.
Left Photo shows the can unit is placed prior to installation. I made this out of 1/2" plywood that I had in the garage, ripped to sized with a table saw. This could easily be done with a circular or even a jig saw. I placed vertical dividers of the same 1/2" ply to separate the cans, and to keep them from spilling out, I used 1/8" ply (door skin) on that edge. I also decided that since cans are heavy when stacked on top one another, that I would divide the unit into a set of upper and lower halves.
This still allows for a stack of 12 standard sized veggie cans and they won't be too heavy to get the lower can.The upper unit has a 45 degree triangular piece of wood in the lower back corner. This is to aid 'kicking' the can forward making it easier to get it out of the column. This worked so well that I also placed a half stop in front of the can to keep the stack from machine gunning their way out!
Here on the right is the unit in place and secured both top, bottom, left right and along each of the shelf supports on the opposite side.The unit was a bit narrower of the opening so I centered it which left a smallish gap seen on the left side. I milled out a background molding (1/4"x 3") out of a 2x4 that I nailed in place. On top of that I placed a moulding of "Ring-Ring". I am not sure at all of the spelling, but tis stuff is hand cut somewhere in the south pacific or Indonesian Islands. JoAnn painted the details to match an art piece already hanging in the hall. These cans were the testers for both the fit and the mechanics of the design and with just a bit of tweaking it is ready to fill. I did not realize that soup cans are not the same height as veggie cans.
The Ring Ring in place- framed like 'normal' molding, this adds a definite Bali type feel to the place.
A closer look at the detail.
Now the only thing left to do is to add the doors. We are planning to make up a left and right side set of doors, made of four individual panels to mimic a Bali inspired dressing screen. I have scroll saw made for doing pierced panels. I will post photos of that process and how the whole thing looks when completed!
All in all, this was a weekend of work since we had all the pieces here. The can storage capacity is a total of 10 half columns of 12 each or 120 cans. Not bad for using space that was but wasn't there!
Until next time!
Here is the wall we selected for the project. it is just off the Kitchen, and a short open wall space. Three steps and we are out and back into the kitchen so we felt this the logical choice.
This unit is going to be placed in the hollow space between the wall studs. It is an often unused dead air space and can be really useful as long as you are careful to not to overdo the span. There are also a few other considerations- There are bearing walls that need to be handled carefully, exterior walls will have insulation that if removed, will affect heating and air conditioning costs, check ahead of cutting into a space for water pipes and electric wires, central vacuum tubes, and of course, be sure to check your local codes as some un-permitted repairs or additions can be costly when you want to sell the property. Different states have vastly different rules. For us, this wall is the left side of a storage closet with shelves, No water and shouldn't have any electric lines. So the next step is measuring it out and removing the drywall on the outer side.
This photo shows the rough opening, note the stud in the middle. Turns out that the shelves in the closet on the opposite side are nailed into this stud so I need to remove it carefully and supply a way to stabilize the shelves once its out. I used a Saws-all to cut the upper and lower end of the end of the stud. I intended to make the unit full height so though I cut the bottom piece a bit proud, I was able to completely remove it. The blade of the saw did pierce the drywall, but a bit of spackle will repair that quickly.
These photos were taken from the Kitchen, braced against the fridge on the left- you can just see the counter on the right for reference on how close this unit will be to the kitchen. We really didn't want this to be inconvenient when cooking.
This shot is to show the new header I installed at the top of the space. A header isn't really needed since this isn't a bearing wall, but in case I needed to nail up to secure the can unit, I would have a spot already in place. This is just a 2x4 cut to fit, laid in horizontally, screwed in to the mid stud and on both ends by using a toe nail technique, or 45 degree angle for best hold.
Left Photo shows the can unit is placed prior to installation. I made this out of 1/2" plywood that I had in the garage, ripped to sized with a table saw. This could easily be done with a circular or even a jig saw. I placed vertical dividers of the same 1/2" ply to separate the cans, and to keep them from spilling out, I used 1/8" ply (door skin) on that edge. I also decided that since cans are heavy when stacked on top one another, that I would divide the unit into a set of upper and lower halves.
This still allows for a stack of 12 standard sized veggie cans and they won't be too heavy to get the lower can.The upper unit has a 45 degree triangular piece of wood in the lower back corner. This is to aid 'kicking' the can forward making it easier to get it out of the column. This worked so well that I also placed a half stop in front of the can to keep the stack from machine gunning their way out!
Here on the right is the unit in place and secured both top, bottom, left right and along each of the shelf supports on the opposite side.The unit was a bit narrower of the opening so I centered it which left a smallish gap seen on the left side. I milled out a background molding (1/4"x 3") out of a 2x4 that I nailed in place. On top of that I placed a moulding of "Ring-Ring". I am not sure at all of the spelling, but tis stuff is hand cut somewhere in the south pacific or Indonesian Islands. JoAnn painted the details to match an art piece already hanging in the hall. These cans were the testers for both the fit and the mechanics of the design and with just a bit of tweaking it is ready to fill. I did not realize that soup cans are not the same height as veggie cans.
The Ring Ring in place- framed like 'normal' molding, this adds a definite Bali type feel to the place.
A closer look at the detail.
Now the only thing left to do is to add the doors. We are planning to make up a left and right side set of doors, made of four individual panels to mimic a Bali inspired dressing screen. I have scroll saw made for doing pierced panels. I will post photos of that process and how the whole thing looks when completed!
All in all, this was a weekend of work since we had all the pieces here. The can storage capacity is a total of 10 half columns of 12 each or 120 cans. Not bad for using space that was but wasn't there!
Until next time!
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