Coop Build Part Three

 

Sheep or Goat Feeder

We do more than Chickens here and this project is all about our goats and sheep. 
This build takes basic woodworking and basic metalworking skills. If you know how to weld and use a saw, you can do this. I have a table saw, miter saw, metal cut off saw, pneumatic tools, drills, sanders etc., but this can be made with a hand saw, hammer, nails, and a drill.

 

Design: I started with an image of a shed type of feeder that I found on Google and modified it based on what I felt I wanted for my animals.

1.       Less waste. More feed in the animal is better, right?

2.       Covered area. We like to eat in the shade, why not them?

3.       Raised tray. Eating up off the ground means less chance of parasites.

4.       Holds a full bale. Less feeding time means more for other things.

5.       Easy loading. Well, because I’m old and getting lazy.

6.       Cheap. I wanted to use what I had on hand.

 

Build:

The plan I came up with was based on the measurements I had.  The internet has a standard bale of hay at 16” tall, 22” wide and 44” long. The one I got at the local Tractor Supply Store was a bit longer and weighed in at 60 pounds. They call it a 2-string bale, but mine had 3, no matter, it was the same dimensions but a much looser pack. Their three string heavy bale is the same dimensions, but weighs in at 120 lbs.

I purposefully avoided using dimensions in this blog because hay bale sizes are totally arbitrary from location to location, please use the heights, widths and depths you need to suit your application and the bales you can find locally. 

Notice also that I wanted the top to hinge up and out of the way as I loaded the bale, and since I want to try the heavier and denser bales I also made the front panel hinged to fall forward for more room and to act as a lever to aid in swinging the bale up and into the unit.

 Materials:

I built this out of the lumber and metal items I had on hand, so cost was minimal. 2x4s, 1x2s, 1” EMT, and #3 rebar is what I had, and you should use what you can find or buy new. Like the dimensions, it’s totally up to you. None of the materials I used were too old or rusty, just extras from older projects. Like the roof. I had the roofing laying around from an old lanai re-roof project we did. When HPM delivered the roofing, they also sent one sheet of a damaged panel they used to protect our material while transporting. Thankfully it was a full 10-footer cut into (4) 30” lengths and each side took 2 of these panels and so the entire roof is the same color.
 I painted the wood with two coats to help stave off the inevitable termite and water damage, but hopefully, it will last a couple of years. In the drawing I show a 2x4 on the feet of the feeder, but I haven’t found I needed it yet. The area it is in is level enough that the weight of the bale keeps the center of gravity low enough to keep the unit from toppling. It’s even stable with the goats standing and climbing into the little tray I did make. I left only 8” for head clearance but the rascal goats can climb on fingernail holds, so I figured it’s going to be what it’s going to be.

The remaining pages are the photos of the build. If you have more specific questions, feel free to contact me.

This is the base unit. (4) 2x4's and a sheet of ply, notched to fit the uprights. Cut the notches tight to eliminate feed waste.

 

Roof rafters made from 2x4's ripped to 2x2. Since there is no weight loading for a roof this size in our area 2x2 is economical. If you get heavy snow loads, the roof angle or rafter size (or both) must be adjusted to compensate for it. No sense building it twice, right?

To load a full bale in this feeder, I hinged the roof to open on one side. This photo shows the hinge placement as well as the attachment method I used for the EMT head gate to the left panel.

Interior shot of the upper bracing just under the roof and the side head gate attachment. The rafters contact both sides of these upper 2x4's

This shows the roof in the open position, and the front head gate panel in place. Note the EMT hanger brackets at the lower right corner. I doubled them up and I am using them as a hinge. This panel acts as a lifting arm "loader" for getting the full bale into the unit.  

 

 

 

  I placed separate panels of 2”x 4” welded wire fencing on on each of the rebar head stock panels to act as a way to make the girls work at getting their supper. In theory, this is going to make their consumption rate a bit slower, thus the name “Slow Feeder”. I used short staples to attach these wire panels in place. They can be removable or left out completely, but you will need to feed more often as their access is really, unfettered. Part of the reason for this build is so I don’t have to lug hay out to them as often. They get 24/7 access to quality hay, I work way less every day to make sure they get it. Win/Win

The roof was a single 10 foot metal panel that I cut into 4 equal pieces of 30”, placing 2 of these pieces on each side. This was a little short at the top leaving a gap but knowing that it would be covered nicely by a standard 6” Ridge roofing cap. This was the only piece I purchased.

So the build picts are finished, and I thought I took picts of the rebar head gates, but I cannot seem to find them. You should be able to zoom in on any of the photos to get a clearer idea of what I did. You can also message me and ask- I would be happy to help.

 

The next set of photos is of me loading the first bale into the feeder.

I raise up the roof and set a pole to prop it open, (this will change soon to a more elegant method) 

Flip the front panel down 

Roll the bale onto the Head gate and lift it up loading the bale into the unit.

Secure the head gate and its ready to feed.

All that's left is to lower the roof and let them in

 

So, even with the weight of a young nanny standing in the tray, the unit is stable. Though, just to be on the safe side I am going to add a 2x4 along the lower feet of the unit as a stabilizer (Shown in yellow on the drawing to the left) That 2x4 will be a minimum of 3 feet long and will be screwed into the bottom of the upright 2x4’s. 

Just to be sure it is not a tripping hazard for the animals nor the humans, it will not extend beyond the feed tray.
Currently, the hay is directly contacting the plywood base of the tray because no gap exists. If my experiment shows it may be beneficial, I will adjust the design to include a gap.

 Next time: Feeder Progress and Results!